I wrote this trip log in chronological date order, from beginning to the end. But the way the blog orders the posts is from END to BEGINNING! I have yet to discover a way to tell it to order them the correct way. It doesn't make sense as a story to start at the end and work back, so if you are just finding this, then please choose to start at the beginning where the story starts. To do that you have to look to the right hand column, to the blog ARCHIVE, click on "March" and at the bottom you'll find "Planning Trip", my first post. Then you can go to the next post from the tiny "newer post" link at the bottom on the left. I think they should have a large "NEXT POST" button!
This blog was EDITED BY EVIE who removed a thousand commas, added a few lines here and there, checked the factual information and made sure that all the place names were spelled correctly. Thank you Evie! If you should find any errors or other corrections, please e-mail to let us know!!
We wish you HAPPY reading and hope it has some interest to you!
Friday, May 9, 2014
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
Monday 7th April: Westminster Abbey, Thames House, East End
Our last full day in England, and of the many places we have yet to visit, the last one is going to be Westminster Abbey, site of coronations, weddings and funerals for a thousand years.
We set off after 10am by bus; that trusty 23 again with a first stop at the Scottish store opposite Selfridge's on Oxford Street in search of a gift for Jamie who is kindly caring for our cat while we're gone.
We hopped on another bus to Victoria station, a tube for the last half mile or so to the Houses of Parliament, and across the street to the Westminster Abbey. Admission is close to $30 per person, and the place was packed with people. We took an interesting audio tour guide and walked around speaker to ear, like everyone else. No pictures were allowed inside; lots of docents everywhere, so unlike St. Paul's where everyone ignored the signs, I didn't see anyone doing that here and didn't try to get any. This one of the nave comes from Google images!
Our big plan for this trip was to have a commitment ceremony here and exchange our rings; we both believed that this would be a very special place for it. There was no such thing as a quiet corner, so we sat near the high altar, where 38 English monarchs have been crowned; it was to was towards the end of the day and with the crowd subsided, we made our promises and exchanged our rings sitting by the steps just below the12th century Cosmati pavement below the alter. We were both ecstatic about that and then dreamily adjourned to the little cafe downstairs for a gourmet lunch.
We were seated at a community table, and were soon joined by a group of four Americans from Boston; we had a nice chat with them. They were staying at The Strand Palace a five star hotel on "the Strand", and getting around by taxi; no buses and tube rides for them! We had a nice lunch and conversation, then entered the obligatory gift shop, where I found some peppermint chocolates for my mom, and bought a picture guide to the abbey so I'd have some decent photos. Our next stop is going to be Thames House, site of MI5 HQ in London as shown on the British spy series (MI5) each episode. So we were looking at our map and trying to figure it out, when a distinguished looking gentleman, an Abbey docent named James, asked if we needed help; when we told him what we were looking for, he appeared bemused and it turns out he used to work at the "Foreign Office", code for MI5! I asked him what he did there, and he told me in mock seriousness, "If I told you that, I'd have to kill you!" He was quite charming and showed us exactly where it was, a short walk away, so we thanked him for his help and made our way out the side entrance, where the picture above was taken--a wet and cloudy day, enhanced a bit in PhotoShop!
We found Thames house soon enough, and took several pictures out front without being arrested.
We had seen a PBS documentary before we left the US featuring some skyscrapers around the world, one of which was the Leadenhall building in London, commonly referred to as the "cheesegrater" because of it's angled front. Essentially built offsite in pieces, it was then transported to the site and assembled, the first of its kind in the world and we've seen the building from afar many times, and even came close on the bus (it's near St. Paul's). I wanted to get up close, so we took another bus ride to within a couple of blocks and walked over. It's still not quite finished and due to open in a matter of weeks; the the front is still all fenced off but it was interesting to see it along with the dome-like building nearby called "the pickle".
The "cheesegrater" is unique in that all of its services and elevators are in the attached structure (right side), and the office space is supposed to be more open and airy because of it. The dome contains private offices, no public admittance. I was hoping there would be a restaurant up top and we could get up there but no luck.
We had a nice lunch at one of the "Pret a Manger" (Ready to Eat) shop nearby, and then got the tube home along with the rest of the commuters in London. Had to stand part of the way but it wasn't a problem.
We relaxed a bit at the hotel, then started in with our packing before taking a dinner break. We chose the just re-opened Garfunkel's right next to the station, and I had a nice steak while Evie chose fish cakes. It was very crowded when we got there at about 8 o'clock, and still nearly full when we left near 9:30. We stopped at one of the little stores nearby for some ice cream and goodies, then back to the room to finish packing, since tomorrow morning we have to leave for the airport by 7:15AM!
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| The Nave picked up from Google images |
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| Famous front view of Westminster Abbey |
We hopped on another bus to Victoria station, a tube for the last half mile or so to the Houses of Parliament, and across the street to the Westminster Abbey. Admission is close to $30 per person, and the place was packed with people. We took an interesting audio tour guide and walked around speaker to ear, like everyone else. No pictures were allowed inside; lots of docents everywhere, so unlike St. Paul's where everyone ignored the signs, I didn't see anyone doing that here and didn't try to get any. This one of the nave comes from Google images!
Our big plan for this trip was to have a commitment ceremony here and exchange our rings; we both believed that this would be a very special place for it. There was no such thing as a quiet corner, so we sat near the high altar, where 38 English monarchs have been crowned; it was to was towards the end of the day and with the crowd subsided, we made our promises and exchanged our rings sitting by the steps just below the12th century Cosmati pavement below the alter. We were both ecstatic about that and then dreamily adjourned to the little cafe downstairs for a gourmet lunch.
We were seated at a community table, and were soon joined by a group of four Americans from Boston; we had a nice chat with them. They were staying at The Strand Palace a five star hotel on "the Strand", and getting around by taxi; no buses and tube rides for them! We had a nice lunch and conversation, then entered the obligatory gift shop, where I found some peppermint chocolates for my mom, and bought a picture guide to the abbey so I'd have some decent photos. Our next stop is going to be Thames House, site of MI5 HQ in London as shown on the British spy series (MI5) each episode. So we were looking at our map and trying to figure it out, when a distinguished looking gentleman, an Abbey docent named James, asked if we needed help; when we told him what we were looking for, he appeared bemused and it turns out he used to work at the "Foreign Office", code for MI5! I asked him what he did there, and he told me in mock seriousness, "If I told you that, I'd have to kill you!" He was quite charming and showed us exactly where it was, a short walk away, so we thanked him for his help and made our way out the side entrance, where the picture above was taken--a wet and cloudy day, enhanced a bit in PhotoShop!
We found Thames house soon enough, and took several pictures out front without being arrested.
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| Infront of MI5 HQ, Thames House |
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| The front of Thames House |
We had seen a PBS documentary before we left the US featuring some skyscrapers around the world, one of which was the Leadenhall building in London, commonly referred to as the "cheesegrater" because of it's angled front. Essentially built offsite in pieces, it was then transported to the site and assembled, the first of its kind in the world and we've seen the building from afar many times, and even came close on the bus (it's near St. Paul's). I wanted to get up close, so we took another bus ride to within a couple of blocks and walked over. It's still not quite finished and due to open in a matter of weeks; the the front is still all fenced off but it was interesting to see it along with the dome-like building nearby called "the pickle".
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| Cheesegrater and Pickle buildings with strange public artwork |
The "cheesegrater" is unique in that all of its services and elevators are in the attached structure (right side), and the office space is supposed to be more open and airy because of it. The dome contains private offices, no public admittance. I was hoping there would be a restaurant up top and we could get up there but no luck.
We had a nice lunch at one of the "Pret a Manger" (Ready to Eat) shop nearby, and then got the tube home along with the rest of the commuters in London. Had to stand part of the way but it wasn't a problem.
We relaxed a bit at the hotel, then started in with our packing before taking a dinner break. We chose the just re-opened Garfunkel's right next to the station, and I had a nice steak while Evie chose fish cakes. It was very crowded when we got there at about 8 o'clock, and still nearly full when we left near 9:30. We stopped at one of the little stores nearby for some ice cream and goodies, then back to the room to finish packing, since tomorrow morning we have to leave for the airport by 7:15AM!
Sunday 6th April: Sunday Roast Dinner at the Fensom's, Bushey
Today is a "family" day as we are planning a trip to the North of London to have a Sunday roast with Evie's old friend Angie and her family, Jeremy and his wife Grace plus their two adult children. Of note is that Jeremy grew up with Sharmaine for the first few years of their lives and continue as far flung friends. We took a stroll along Praed Street which passes in front of Paddington station, looking for souvenirs; every other shop there seems to be selling them. I am in great need of another carry-on rolling suitcase. I've decided that the backpack has got to go for the return trip; it is just too awkward. We found a shop that was selling suitcases with four wheels and after bargaining with him, the shopkeeper came down from L40 to L32, so it was a sale. (I have no symbol on the keyboard for the pound sign, so the L will have to suffice. Right now an English pound is worth about $1.60)
I bought a nice "delivery" bag in another shop, green leather with a shoulder strap, and several zippered pockets; only L25!. It is my only personal purchase of the trip, other than a souvenir "Big Ben" tower to compliment my Eiffel Tower from Paris trip over a decade ago.
We set off for our lunch engagement from Paddington via the Bakerloo line to Baker Street and then changed for the Jubilee line. We rode all the way to the very end of the line to Stanmore to an area called Bushey. This NE suburb of London is quite a ways out and is beyond our Oyster pass range but the additional charge was only L1.10 each. We arrived early before Jeremy was due to pick us up; Stanmore Station is nearly a century old, looks like an old railway station, as I suppose it should, with some history on the walls about the local community of Stanmore.
Note the stairs that greeted us as we arrived at the station. This is but one example of why you must be able to walk without problems if you are going to visit London and use public transportation. LOTS OF STAIRS!
After a short wait, Jeremy arrived with his mom Angie and off we went to his house. He had invited us for a traditionally English Sunday roast dinner and I was really looking forward to a typical English experience! The house was cozy and comfortable and everyone there made us feel quite at home. We chatted like mad while they prepared the dinner; one thing at a time with lots of everything. When it came together it was glorious: roasted chicken that was crispy, potatoes, peas, carrots, brussel sprouts, parsnips, turnips (very tasty when cooked well to make them nice and soft), Yorkshire pudding (really a bready shell that you pour gravy on), a gallon of gravy and even more things that I've forgotten. It was bigger than a typical Thanksgiving dinner here in the US! Their daughter Cloe was there and son Daniel showed up a little later, both lovely kids.
Afterwards, Evie called Sharmaine and put her on "Tango" so it was like a video phone, and she was so pleased to talk with Angie and Jeremy, who she had spent much of her early childhood years with since they were neighbors over 40 years ago! They all talked for quite awhile while I lounged in front of the TV and watched the end of a LeMans race since there was no baseball anywhere; I adjusted though and endured a rather standard race to the end.
Following this, there was a big annual event televised; the annual University Boat Race between Oxford and Cambridge rowing teams. This takes place right on the Thames through London and is a big event in the UK; this race got off to a good even start, both boats in a dead heat, until about 5 minutes in one of the Cambridge team's oars got caught up with an Oxford oar, and it nearly threw the oarsman out of the boat. This small error was enough to decide the race as the Cambridge guys were never able to make up the lost time. Later it was revealed that the oar rigging was damaged in the "collision" and they were never able to get the speed back up. So, for the last 12 minutes or so, Oxford pulled farther and farther ahead and all the drama of the race was completely gone.
After all that excitement, we took some photos for posterity, had some freshly baked desserts, a delicious coffee-walnut cake that Angie baked herself and then said our goodbyes. We were driven to the station by Jeremy and Angie who both swore that they would visit us in California some time soon. I told Jeremy I'd take him to a baseball game for an authentic American experience and then to San Francisco, where he could do some wind surfing, his latest passion.
So, off we went, down those multitude of yellow stairs and onto a waiting train back to London and our hotel!
I bought a nice "delivery" bag in another shop, green leather with a shoulder strap, and several zippered pockets; only L25!. It is my only personal purchase of the trip, other than a souvenir "Big Ben" tower to compliment my Eiffel Tower from Paris trip over a decade ago.
We set off for our lunch engagement from Paddington via the Bakerloo line to Baker Street and then changed for the Jubilee line. We rode all the way to the very end of the line to Stanmore to an area called Bushey. This NE suburb of London is quite a ways out and is beyond our Oyster pass range but the additional charge was only L1.10 each. We arrived early before Jeremy was due to pick us up; Stanmore Station is nearly a century old, looks like an old railway station, as I suppose it should, with some history on the walls about the local community of Stanmore.
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| Stanmore Tube Station |
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| The stairs at the end of the line. |
Note the stairs that greeted us as we arrived at the station. This is but one example of why you must be able to walk without problems if you are going to visit London and use public transportation. LOTS OF STAIRS!
After a short wait, Jeremy arrived with his mom Angie and off we went to his house. He had invited us for a traditionally English Sunday roast dinner and I was really looking forward to a typical English experience! The house was cozy and comfortable and everyone there made us feel quite at home. We chatted like mad while they prepared the dinner; one thing at a time with lots of everything. When it came together it was glorious: roasted chicken that was crispy, potatoes, peas, carrots, brussel sprouts, parsnips, turnips (very tasty when cooked well to make them nice and soft), Yorkshire pudding (really a bready shell that you pour gravy on), a gallon of gravy and even more things that I've forgotten. It was bigger than a typical Thanksgiving dinner here in the US! Their daughter Cloe was there and son Daniel showed up a little later, both lovely kids.
Afterwards, Evie called Sharmaine and put her on "Tango" so it was like a video phone, and she was so pleased to talk with Angie and Jeremy, who she had spent much of her early childhood years with since they were neighbors over 40 years ago! They all talked for quite awhile while I lounged in front of the TV and watched the end of a LeMans race since there was no baseball anywhere; I adjusted though and endured a rather standard race to the end.
Following this, there was a big annual event televised; the annual University Boat Race between Oxford and Cambridge rowing teams. This takes place right on the Thames through London and is a big event in the UK; this race got off to a good even start, both boats in a dead heat, until about 5 minutes in one of the Cambridge team's oars got caught up with an Oxford oar, and it nearly threw the oarsman out of the boat. This small error was enough to decide the race as the Cambridge guys were never able to make up the lost time. Later it was revealed that the oar rigging was damaged in the "collision" and they were never able to get the speed back up. So, for the last 12 minutes or so, Oxford pulled farther and farther ahead and all the drama of the race was completely gone.
After all that excitement, we took some photos for posterity, had some freshly baked desserts, a delicious coffee-walnut cake that Angie baked herself and then said our goodbyes. We were driven to the station by Jeremy and Angie who both swore that they would visit us in California some time soon. I told Jeremy I'd take him to a baseball game for an authentic American experience and then to San Francisco, where he could do some wind surfing, his latest passion.
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| Evie and Angie (front) with Jeremy, Grace and Cloe |
So, off we went, down those multitude of yellow stairs and onto a waiting train back to London and our hotel!
Saturday 5th April: Day Trip to Lowestoft
Today is our scheduled "Day Trip". We're taking the train all the way to the East Coast of England to visit Evie's old friends in the little town of Lowestoft (about 100 miles from London).
This entails an early start as the train leaves from the Liverpool Street station, NOT Paddington, at 9AM. We were up before 7AM for a quick breakfast, then walked over to Paddington to get on the tube via the Hammersmith Line which turned out to be a very long walk to the platform and difficult to locate! The Circle, Central and Bakerloo lines are easy to get to. Once aboard, it was a straight shot to Liverpool Street station. We had to pick up the tickets which had been purchased online back home and then we found the correct platform. It all went smoothly and we made it with plenty of time.
Evie got us First Class tickets as far as Norwich (Noridge to us Yanks), and the cars had nice wide seats, and plenty of empty ones. The journey took a little over an hour.
The train from Norwich was a local or milk run service and stopped MANY times on the way to the coast. At times the train just seemed to be crawling along. Although only 22 miles, it took nearly another hour! The countryside here was interesting and different from the rolling fields in the West. The East Anglican region has a lot of reclaimed bogs which had been extensively mined for peat (fuel) in the middle ages, and now laced with canals, ponds, shallow lakes, and other wetlands. There are lots of boats, many marinas and some barges serving as homes.
Suzanne and Tony met us at the station with big smiles and hugs, and gave us a little tour of their claim-to-fame, being the Eastern most point of the British Isles! Lowestoft is on the North Sea and extensive erosion has forced a breakwater of stones to be built. There is a large plantation of windmills offshore in the distance, and some industrial buildings north and south, and a brisk wind blowing. Fishing has all but ceased there but used to be a port for the trawlers in the North Sea fishing fleet.
We piled back in the car for a short drive just a mile or so south to the shifting beach area of town. As we walked along the beachfront, it widened out to a very extensive sandy beach with actual people frolicking about like it was Santa Cruz in summer. No one entered the gray and choppy water, however! There was a large apartment building erected a century ago by an early magnate who tried to make this a beach resort, and there were a bunch of little beach chalets (storage units) that people own or rent for storage of their beach chairs and, as important, windbreaks;little portable walls that protect sunbathers from the biting wind. It was all very pretty, and fairly comfortable with our sweaters and coats on, as it was still probably low 50's outside.
After a nice walk we took some pictures and with the time now approaching 1PM, I made the suggestion of where we were going for lunch! Tony said he had made something for us at their house (rather that eating out in town), so we set off to their home in the neighboring village of Oulton Broad, a short way West.
Tony showed us around the house, with a nice solarium and back yard full of plants, even some familiar to Sacramento yards, like Nandina (Heavenly Bamboo) and Photinias (with the new, red leaves shining in the sun). After some tea and coffee, he brought out his masterpiece, a very nice salad with chicken, and a lemon tart for dessert. We chatted away until 5:30 but really wanted to stay longer; however, we had booked our tickets back to London and it was time to start the homeward journey.
This trip was by an alternate route, South to Ipswich and switch trains for London. Though the train left on time, it was slowed for some reason and then held at one point for a green light. Although the engineer called the station to hold the connecting train, we saw it just departing as we arrived at the station! Several passengers were vocally disappointed with the service; no other tourists on this train, just locals, who were equally upset! We only had to wait about ten minutes for the next train, but it was NOT an express, another milk run, and we arrived nearly an hour after our expected time.
Hungry again, we elected to walk outside the station and see what was there. Evie said that it had been a seedy section of town in the past but it looks redeveloped now, very busy, and a pub right outside the station was packed with people standing around outside with drinks and cigarettes. We found a nice little British hole in the wall right across from the station, very narrow little cafe, but authentic English food. I had a Steak and Ale pie and not only was it very good, but more than I could eat!
We took the tube back to Paddington, getting in after 11PM, and ready for bed!
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| Map of England showing the region we are visiting |
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| Closer version, showing stop at Norwich to Lowestoft, and Ipswich on return voyage |
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| Liverpool Street Station |
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| First Class rail car |
The train from Norwich was a local or milk run service and stopped MANY times on the way to the coast. At times the train just seemed to be crawling along. Although only 22 miles, it took nearly another hour! The countryside here was interesting and different from the rolling fields in the West. The East Anglican region has a lot of reclaimed bogs which had been extensively mined for peat (fuel) in the middle ages, and now laced with canals, ponds, shallow lakes, and other wetlands. There are lots of boats, many marinas and some barges serving as homes.
Suzanne and Tony met us at the station with big smiles and hugs, and gave us a little tour of their claim-to-fame, being the Eastern most point of the British Isles! Lowestoft is on the North Sea and extensive erosion has forced a breakwater of stones to be built. There is a large plantation of windmills offshore in the distance, and some industrial buildings north and south, and a brisk wind blowing. Fishing has all but ceased there but used to be a port for the trawlers in the North Sea fishing fleet.
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| Us at Eastern most spot in Britain |
We piled back in the car for a short drive just a mile or so south to the shifting beach area of town. As we walked along the beachfront, it widened out to a very extensive sandy beach with actual people frolicking about like it was Santa Cruz in summer. No one entered the gray and choppy water, however! There was a large apartment building erected a century ago by an early magnate who tried to make this a beach resort, and there were a bunch of little beach chalets (storage units) that people own or rent for storage of their beach chairs and, as important, windbreaks;little portable walls that protect sunbathers from the biting wind. It was all very pretty, and fairly comfortable with our sweaters and coats on, as it was still probably low 50's outside.
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| Luxury apartments facing the sea at Lowestoft |
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| Beach Chalets for holiday supplies |
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| Suzanne, Evie and Tony on beachfront |
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| Nice wide stretch of beach in Lowistoft |
After a nice walk we took some pictures and with the time now approaching 1PM, I made the suggestion of where we were going for lunch! Tony said he had made something for us at their house (rather that eating out in town), so we set off to their home in the neighboring village of Oulton Broad, a short way West.
Tony showed us around the house, with a nice solarium and back yard full of plants, even some familiar to Sacramento yards, like Nandina (Heavenly Bamboo) and Photinias (with the new, red leaves shining in the sun). After some tea and coffee, he brought out his masterpiece, a very nice salad with chicken, and a lemon tart for dessert. We chatted away until 5:30 but really wanted to stay longer; however, we had booked our tickets back to London and it was time to start the homeward journey.
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| Tony in front of house at Oulton Broad, Suffolk |
Hungry again, we elected to walk outside the station and see what was there. Evie said that it had been a seedy section of town in the past but it looks redeveloped now, very busy, and a pub right outside the station was packed with people standing around outside with drinks and cigarettes. We found a nice little British hole in the wall right across from the station, very narrow little cafe, but authentic English food. I had a Steak and Ale pie and not only was it very good, but more than I could eat!
We took the tube back to Paddington, getting in after 11PM, and ready for bed!
Monday, April 14, 2014
Friday 4th April: Queensway Area Lunch. The Mousetrap and Dinner
Today we've decided to take it easy. Evie wanted to visit several friends, all way in the south of the city, but she felt as though she might be coming down with a cold an with regret had to cancel those plans. After resting, we did take a bus over to Queensway, near our first hotel in order to take care of some business there but, yet again, not much help was a given! We stopped in a pharmacy for some medicinal supplies; mailed postcards and then we rested at a little cafe called the Art Cafe, which we had overlooked during our first week in the area and had a nice lunch. I had what would be called a chicken fried steak sandwich at home which went by another name here, chicken "escalope"!
We returned to the hotel for awhile, and when Evie felt better, we decided we'd venture out to see if we could attend "The Mousetrap", the Agatha Christie short story adapted to the theater over 60 years ago and STILL playing, so it's kind of a "must see" type of experience.
We took the tube from Paddington directly to Leicester Square; after a short walk we found the theater and were able to buy two tickets for the evening performance just moments before curtain time! The play was a typical parlour mystery with one very good set, the living room of a run-down mansion being turned into a bed and breakfast by a young couple in about 1951. Rationing was still in effect and the economy was only beginning to recover after the War. It was well acted with the required murder after a brief power failure, and the vetting of suspects. Of course it has a surprise ending and no, it wasn't the butler since there was no butler but at the curtain call, the audience was sworn to secrecy as to the outcomel
When we got out of the theater it was already 10 PM and we were both pretty hungry. The crowds in the area were amazing, swarming in the streets and hanging out OUTSIDE some of the pubs and clubs, drinks and ciggies in hand though being a quiet brisk outside; it didn't seem to affect anyone.
The Pubs were incredibly crowded and the one we did try had already stopped serving food, so we wandered a bit and eventually discovered a neat little cafe called "The Stock Pot" that didn't look too crowded, so we stepped in and had a seat. They had a great menu with very reasonable prices: I selected a sirloin steak and Evie chose chicken escalope; breaded and fried and covered with a lush tomato sauce. My steak was thin, but very tasty, and both dishes had roast potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, and carrots, all done very nicely. It was one of the best meals of the trip!
We walked back to Trafalgar Square and took the trusty 23 bus right back to the front door of the hotel! Can't beat that service!
We returned to the hotel for awhile, and when Evie felt better, we decided we'd venture out to see if we could attend "The Mousetrap", the Agatha Christie short story adapted to the theater over 60 years ago and STILL playing, so it's kind of a "must see" type of experience.
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| Paddington Station tube platform, on the Circle Line andone of the few at ground level. |
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| Paddington Bear! |
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| One of the newer tube trains; no doors between cars. |
We took the tube from Paddington directly to Leicester Square; after a short walk we found the theater and were able to buy two tickets for the evening performance just moments before curtain time! The play was a typical parlour mystery with one very good set, the living room of a run-down mansion being turned into a bed and breakfast by a young couple in about 1951. Rationing was still in effect and the economy was only beginning to recover after the War. It was well acted with the required murder after a brief power failure, and the vetting of suspects. Of course it has a surprise ending and no, it wasn't the butler since there was no butler but at the curtain call, the audience was sworn to secrecy as to the outcomel
When we got out of the theater it was already 10 PM and we were both pretty hungry. The crowds in the area were amazing, swarming in the streets and hanging out OUTSIDE some of the pubs and clubs, drinks and ciggies in hand though being a quiet brisk outside; it didn't seem to affect anyone.
The Pubs were incredibly crowded and the one we did try had already stopped serving food, so we wandered a bit and eventually discovered a neat little cafe called "The Stock Pot" that didn't look too crowded, so we stepped in and had a seat. They had a great menu with very reasonable prices: I selected a sirloin steak and Evie chose chicken escalope; breaded and fried and covered with a lush tomato sauce. My steak was thin, but very tasty, and both dishes had roast potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, and carrots, all done very nicely. It was one of the best meals of the trip!
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| Great Meal after the Mousetrap! |
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| The Stock Pot just a few blocks off Leicester Square |
We walked back to Trafalgar Square and took the trusty 23 bus right back to the front door of the hotel! Can't beat that service!
Thursday 3rd April: National Gallery and Carnaby Street
Today is dedicated to the National Gallery, one of the greatest art galleries in the world. We had our normal breakfast and then took the trusty 23 bus from Praed Street, which passes in front of Paddington station, only a block from the hotel. It seems that the 23 goes everywhere! We got off right at Trafalgar Square and I started taking pictures right away. The place was crammed with people, there were jugglers and musicians, tourists by the hundreds, some locals walking to and fro, lots of people taking pictures with cell phones and cameras.
There is a statue of the heroic Admiral Nelson, hero and victim of the battle of Trafalgar who saved England from yet another catastrophe during the Napoleonic wars; he is perched atop of a slender, very tall column way above the crowd.
I climbed onto the base (no stairs) and took my photos of the crowd and a panoramic video. The National Gallery anchors the square, a small dome on top of columns, very classic architecture.
We entered the gallery; as with most major galleries in London it's free (thankfully, as the prices for everything else will kill your budget). Although there were many signs asking for contributions. No photos were allowed anywhere in the museum, so we wandered our way through the 4 floors and thousands of paintings. There was a section on the Impressionists with many paintings by Monet, Degas, Van Gough, and the counterparts and entire wings devoted to religious art from the middle ages. We found the Dutch Masters and discovered our first Rembrandt (an early self portrait), just as a tour guide came in to talk about it and the painting hanging next to it which Rembrandt had used as inspiration to display his powers. The guide was interesting and took the crowd around the corner to view and discuss other paintings by Rembrandt; this time a well known later self portrait, looking old and haggard even though he was only early 60's, alongside an iconic painting of his mistress and-the cover image for a historical novel I read a year or two ago called "Rembrandt's Whore". He told a little of the story of the painter and his house keeper turned mistress, who became mother to one of his sons after the death of his wife. Like so many artists, poor Rembrandt, one of the greatest painters of the ages, died in poverty, unappreciated by most of the art community of his time.
We saw too many other paintings to remember, by Velasquez, Rubens, Leonardo, Raphael, Titian, and a few by Vermeer ("the Pearl Earring" wasn't here), Goya, Constable, and a couple of large Turner's, one of England's greatest, and an early harbinger of Impressionism.
It can be very tiring walking around an art gallery! Fortunately, this one is well stocked with benches and chairs, some very luxurious, with padded leather and such. We spent over 4 hours here, and still ffelt somewhat rushed.. We finished by having a nice lunch at the gallery cafe; I had a nice egg salad sandwich on fresh baguette, Evie had a fish pie which she loved. I took a shot of Nelson's statue through the window when some dark clouds were passing by.
We finally left the gallery, sometime after 3 PM, and walked around the square with its pair of big fountains and many statues including one of George Washington! There were all sorts of street entertainers in the square including a suspended in air Yoda and a rock group using battery powered amps.
We walked across the street to the church of St. Martins in the Field, another icon of London, famous for orchestras that have recorded there over the years. We happened upon the rehearsal for a concert after that very evening, a string quartet lead by a famous woman on violin, with a harpsichord, playing Vivaldi and some other early works. We sat and listened long enough to get some energy back then started up the street only to find ourselves in front of the National Portrait Gallery!
We had to walk in, even if for a short time, and rush through part of it. Entire wings devoted to portraits and sculptures of all of the kings, queens and sundry royals as well as a mixture of modern celebrities. with a whole room devoted to Vivian Leigh from before "Gone with the Wind" until her last pictures.
Without a real destination in mind, and set off toward Soho. to find Carnaby Street. After walking through the densely packed Leicester Square (pronounced LESTER) with it's statue of Shakespeare leaning on a very tilted pedestal, we sat on a bench in a small park called Golden Square. We watched some young men play ping pong; the tables were there but they had to bring their own paddles and balls and apparently came by bike.
After sufficient rest, we continued on and finally found the legendary shopping mecca a couple of blocks further on, still a destination 50 years made famous for its fashions and the hit makers of the 60's; the Beatles, Rolling Stones and even the Small Faces who have a plaque on one of the walls. It's packed with highly priced clothing stores and some restaurants packed into only a couple of city blocks long. I didn't see anything that I couldn't live without!!
After a circuitous walk around, we found a tube entrance and caught the Bakerloo line right back to Paddington station, just a couple of blocks from the hotel. We made a stop at a Costa Coffee house for refreshments and returned to the hotel for a rest, a nice little lie down! Then, it was dinner time. I thought we should explore the major boulevard to our west, Edgware Road (that no "e" makes it look funny). We jumped on a bus for the several blocks and soon discovered that this area is completely Arabic; all shops and restaurants are Middle Eastern with lots of Lebanese, Syrian, Egyptian places, men with hookah pipes drinking their coffees outside. I was still looking for the English experience so we decided that this was a failed exploration and we quickly jumped back on a trusty number 23 back to the hotel stopping at a little cafe just a half block away and I had more fish and chips, Evie I think had some soup, and we shuffled back to the hotel and took it easy for the rest of the evening. We're very happy with this room. The price of the room varies from day to day, even though we are here for a week. The first place gave us one night free with 6 purchased, but not here, so it's about $1300 for the week.
I still haven't found any locations for casual live music, either a local pub or club with a band. Can't find a publication that might list them; not much on the Web and when we ask anyone, people tell us there is no live music??!! I cannot believe it despite Evie telling me this before we left and that mostly all the music is in dance clubs; I think she may have a point!
 |
| Musicians in front of National Gallery |
There is a statue of the heroic Admiral Nelson, hero and victim of the battle of Trafalgar who saved England from yet another catastrophe during the Napoleonic wars; he is perched atop of a slender, very tall column way above the crowd.
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| Nelson's statue and column |
I climbed onto the base (no stairs) and took my photos of the crowd and a panoramic video. The National Gallery anchors the square, a small dome on top of columns, very classic architecture.
 |
| The National Gallery on Trafalgar Square |
Video panorama of Trafalgar Square
We entered the gallery; as with most major galleries in London it's free (thankfully, as the prices for everything else will kill your budget). Although there were many signs asking for contributions. No photos were allowed anywhere in the museum, so we wandered our way through the 4 floors and thousands of paintings. There was a section on the Impressionists with many paintings by Monet, Degas, Van Gough, and the counterparts and entire wings devoted to religious art from the middle ages. We found the Dutch Masters and discovered our first Rembrandt (an early self portrait), just as a tour guide came in to talk about it and the painting hanging next to it which Rembrandt had used as inspiration to display his powers. The guide was interesting and took the crowd around the corner to view and discuss other paintings by Rembrandt; this time a well known later self portrait, looking old and haggard even though he was only early 60's, alongside an iconic painting of his mistress and-the cover image for a historical novel I read a year or two ago called "Rembrandt's Whore". He told a little of the story of the painter and his house keeper turned mistress, who became mother to one of his sons after the death of his wife. Like so many artists, poor Rembrandt, one of the greatest painters of the ages, died in poverty, unappreciated by most of the art community of his time.
 |
| Rembrandt's housekeeper |
We saw too many other paintings to remember, by Velasquez, Rubens, Leonardo, Raphael, Titian, and a few by Vermeer ("the Pearl Earring" wasn't here), Goya, Constable, and a couple of large Turner's, one of England's greatest, and an early harbinger of Impressionism.
It can be very tiring walking around an art gallery! Fortunately, this one is well stocked with benches and chairs, some very luxurious, with padded leather and such. We spent over 4 hours here, and still ffelt somewhat rushed.. We finished by having a nice lunch at the gallery cafe; I had a nice egg salad sandwich on fresh baguette, Evie had a fish pie which she loved. I took a shot of Nelson's statue through the window when some dark clouds were passing by.
 |
| Yoda hanging out |
We walked across the street to the church of St. Martins in the Field, another icon of London, famous for orchestras that have recorded there over the years. We happened upon the rehearsal for a concert after that very evening, a string quartet lead by a famous woman on violin, with a harpsichord, playing Vivaldi and some other early works. We sat and listened long enough to get some energy back then started up the street only to find ourselves in front of the National Portrait Gallery!
 |
| The Spire of St. Martins |
We had to walk in, even if for a short time, and rush through part of it. Entire wings devoted to portraits and sculptures of all of the kings, queens and sundry royals as well as a mixture of modern celebrities. with a whole room devoted to Vivian Leigh from before "Gone with the Wind" until her last pictures.
 |
| Statue of Shakespeare in Leicester Sq. |
Without a real destination in mind, and set off toward Soho. to find Carnaby Street. After walking through the densely packed Leicester Square (pronounced LESTER) with it's statue of Shakespeare leaning on a very tilted pedestal, we sat on a bench in a small park called Golden Square. We watched some young men play ping pong; the tables were there but they had to bring their own paddles and balls and apparently came by bike.
After sufficient rest, we continued on and finally found the legendary shopping mecca a couple of blocks further on, still a destination 50 years made famous for its fashions and the hit makers of the 60's; the Beatles, Rolling Stones and even the Small Faces who have a plaque on one of the walls. It's packed with highly priced clothing stores and some restaurants packed into only a couple of city blocks long. I didn't see anything that I couldn't live without!!
 |
| Irving Street, pedestrians only |
 |
| Carnaby Street towards one end |
 |
| Map showing location of Carnaby St., right off Regent Street and between Oxford Circus and Piccadilly Circus. Trafalgar Square is just past Piccadilly Circus on the lower right corner |
After a circuitous walk around, we found a tube entrance and caught the Bakerloo line right back to Paddington station, just a couple of blocks from the hotel. We made a stop at a Costa Coffee house for refreshments and returned to the hotel for a rest, a nice little lie down! Then, it was dinner time. I thought we should explore the major boulevard to our west, Edgware Road (that no "e" makes it look funny). We jumped on a bus for the several blocks and soon discovered that this area is completely Arabic; all shops and restaurants are Middle Eastern with lots of Lebanese, Syrian, Egyptian places, men with hookah pipes drinking their coffees outside. I was still looking for the English experience so we decided that this was a failed exploration and we quickly jumped back on a trusty number 23 back to the hotel stopping at a little cafe just a half block away and I had more fish and chips, Evie I think had some soup, and we shuffled back to the hotel and took it easy for the rest of the evening. We're very happy with this room. The price of the room varies from day to day, even though we are here for a week. The first place gave us one night free with 6 purchased, but not here, so it's about $1300 for the week.
 |
| Hotel room at Norfolk Towers |
 |
| Spacious bathroom; no shower curtain |
I still haven't found any locations for casual live music, either a local pub or club with a band. Can't find a publication that might list them; not much on the Web and when we ask anyone, people tell us there is no live music??!! I cannot believe it despite Evie telling me this before we left and that mostly all the music is in dance clubs; I think she may have a point!
Monday, April 7, 2014
Smog Day Afternoon
Yesterday was one of those overcast days that just never burns off, I thought it was just slightly foggy, although it wasn't humid at all. We never did get any blue sky peeking through but I didn't thought it to be a misty day typical of English Winter to Spring weather.
When we got back to the hotel and turned on the TV the big news was the KILLER smog!
They rated it a 10 on a 10 scale with an unusual weather pattern contributing by blowing sand from the Sahara desert all the way up through France and over England as well. Along with coal fired power plants still operating, an increasing popularity of diesel powered cars and trucks, had resulted in the worst smog day in several decades. This pattern is set to be with us for several days at least, and they are advising people with breathing problems to stay indoors. Evie has had a cough since we got here but not many other symptoms of a cold and I got a scratchy throat today; now I know why!
When we got back to the hotel and turned on the TV the big news was the KILLER smog!
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| Headline in evening paper |
They rated it a 10 on a 10 scale with an unusual weather pattern contributing by blowing sand from the Sahara desert all the way up through France and over England as well. Along with coal fired power plants still operating, an increasing popularity of diesel powered cars and trucks, had resulted in the worst smog day in several decades. This pattern is set to be with us for several days at least, and they are advising people with breathing problems to stay indoors. Evie has had a cough since we got here but not many other symptoms of a cold and I got a scratchy throat today; now I know why!
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| More headlines with photos |
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| Actual Sahara sand on taxi |
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| Detail of story |
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